tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4123643272069817192024-03-18T20:24:38.338-07:00Deus ex machinaJennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-412364327206981719.post-29761675031559512922011-01-18T20:45:00.000-08:002011-01-18T21:15:30.053-08:00Osram headlight on Honda ST1300<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1rvQZFz5WQRN5jnKKpJMO8Ge6fXTU0Kg7ydcM0kplg-sCngndStAZpI0VI3Tb0Qcf8NiQ2wOeqm_cD4_XY96MFaeWfT5EnuKSztgGgOvDzLhLuM8Fv7yZ4BZaDzbQHF5TT6AjSE75Jwo/s1600/P1070939.JPG"><img style="text-align: left;float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1rvQZFz5WQRN5jnKKpJMO8Ge6fXTU0Kg7ydcM0kplg-sCngndStAZpI0VI3Tb0Qcf8NiQ2wOeqm_cD4_XY96MFaeWfT5EnuKSztgGgOvDzLhLuM8Fv7yZ4BZaDzbQHF5TT6AjSE75Jwo/s320/P1070939.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563758845603990242" /></a><br /><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfmB8TIrHn3uy8y80rl5Z4UCuRX45JYm-1NoH_3eSS6BWmBbureREAg4bhXjKzew3ig6pX-8gUttW6U7WsrYFkRm29Oi_JRhRWo-OvfK4A0OL5_9xp2N8D1nqBXTp6NNf2kFsWBAJT1MM/s320/P1070947.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563754525597578098" /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I recently installed a new set of Osram H4 60/55W lights on my ST1300. The overall experience was pretty miserable. I didn't want to remove the fairing so I spent a lot of time reaching up through the bottom of the fairing and down-through the top of the fairing.</div><div><br /></div><div>The end-result though was a very, bright set of lights.</div><div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeps-vESFplaILJF_ZOevA7WCqQOupUMLWXiax6UVGTSGUr5BTSUTErMKSPfVJZNeIT_xgKhrar4rSjVIuHETgPPoCdiUzPa0K0yLA4bWbP_4_ZZdQldZyb4qAc2kpWqw0TInBmjBbnPs/s1600/P1070945.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeps-vESFplaILJF_ZOevA7WCqQOupUMLWXiax6UVGTSGUr5BTSUTErMKSPfVJZNeIT_xgKhrar4rSjVIuHETgPPoCdiUzPa0K0yLA4bWbP_4_ZZdQldZyb4qAc2kpWqw0TInBmjBbnPs/s320/P1070945.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563754238834214978" /></a><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>It's important to point out that I needed to purchase a couple of brackets for the lights to fit correctly in the ST sockets. I used the tin snips below to clip two of the posts on the lights and the bracket fit nicely over a tab on the light.</div><div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNR1F9ZJGdjWOlHnFL8x3Uf0d2MprMQ3H4uLoMrH506qf44MxTtZgKGfiS0jn6IR3xXXZz3_n3S_GUKzmfRcNMtyePKMPxXt8iURgsTC5B9b4oWRcDcZR8zC8I3-Uvi8OjLFJSTunVAc/s320/P1070942.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563755172818954658" /></div><div>Cutting to the chase, it was hard for me to put these lights in the ST as there is very little room for large hands to maneuver in. Having a loose bracket on the lights only exacerbated the problem. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6YPi-pPNOZoShzYHIZX6lXzuhaLNDpZh_tbkZ6yY1B7fRfqHS0-OlK37Dlc3X-vc0sC_GzbzxGtxwtIBfS8H1zbrQpi19PHeievLDLZUSep-_mtUKsJVamhIwC0AwXSZgm3eRsqYZdMQ/s320/P1070944.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563755342450281074" /><div>To secure the bracket to the light, briefly, while I got it into the light housing I used some Elmer's spray adhesive I had around. I sprayed the bracket carefully and quickly seated it around the base of the light. While a bit like playing the game Operation so as not to touch the light. The glue worked great. The glue sets fast and really isn't made to hold the bracket for more than a few minutes but I just needed it for about 1 minutes to get the light back into the socket. Again, the glue may have saved my sanity and allowed me to put the light into the socket correctly. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>If you would like more information about doing this job or the final quality of the lights just post a comment and I'll follow-up.<br /></div><div></div>Jennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-412364327206981719.post-6255832406220905402011-01-18T19:42:00.000-08:002011-01-18T20:45:38.214-08:00Lines and ridges on my fingernails - gone!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK5PeJg4VQPjLp3L4sErMTEUaxCKzH3IGG9wGwbnPZCsX7AiJ4Xg_LtKvuqG_rfkG_ssoV1wuXd5Cw8BJFLULrXh7RPxE3fs-E4D35kS1Q0jBrah9kD-nQ-utpB5Zn_JUkLfzVi0hyphenhyphenZdc/s1600/P1070954.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK5PeJg4VQPjLp3L4sErMTEUaxCKzH3IGG9wGwbnPZCsX7AiJ4Xg_LtKvuqG_rfkG_ssoV1wuXd5Cw8BJFLULrXh7RPxE3fs-E4D35kS1Q0jBrah9kD-nQ-utpB5Zn_JUkLfzVi0hyphenhyphenZdc/s320/P1070954.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563752754401498626" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75IYHKLKd-3ExV4_cKJ4LI_udS1bqY-tAByrjSXRJgubR4hH_eUsGPsXdpsDSY7H1nx5MxqVQmWxDb_XagXCY6piQ63garE4Cg0SSjNLp019YmfVkYBJ9FV-G9BaaE6jqtWcSS0teP8o/s320/P1070955.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563740452258134418" />Executive summary:<div><br /></div><div>I had horizontal ridges on my fingernails that looked unsightly. The diagnosis of various Internet blogs/sites was that I was malnourished or lacking in one or more vitamins. I found one site though that had a simple solution: stop picking your cuticles and wait a few months for the nail to start growing back normally.</div><div><br /></div><div>Common sense</div><div>With this in mind I made it my mission to stop my nervous habit of picking at my cuticles and see if there would be any difference after six months. </div><div><br /></div><div>The difference was dramatic. The nails were growing back heathy and the horizontal ridges completely gone. The moral of this story is: there's no quick fix, I need to change my basic bad habit of picking at my nails. That it was really, really, hard to change. I need to constantly remind myself to not pick at my cuticles but that's what it took to make my nails look good again.</div><div><br /></div><div>Here's the difference after six months using a side view. </div><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlFsN4-1hb7SfL-qj0KAZEMzW5ioqrdEfZ85hY7mh_ftL0JL9-iH6u4ebdc77kvfrHZrCD1HsFkmNwloPDPxgqJPwpPS-Zfwvc2mghaf-0R-4cDIQ5MPv2QR6mvlx1_QKZt5B_dn8hGwE/s320/P1070953.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5563740973276654418" /><div>To the left you can see the sheer amount of nail growth I was losing when I was picking my cuticles. The old nail is thin and has the horizontal ridges in it (seen in the picture above). The new, lower section, of the nail looks heathy and has no ridges.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>In conclusion, I didn't need to buy any herbal remedies, vitamins, minerals etc. I just needed to stop picking at my nails. If you have horizontal ridges in your nails, and want to see if you can 'heal' them, try not picking at your cuticles/nails for a few months. It's tough but the difference was definitely noticeable for me after about four-months. Good luck.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Jennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-412364327206981719.post-87665253217221257512010-07-19T13:08:00.000-07:002010-07-19T13:57:49.513-07:00"I'd rather leave than suffer this"I just returned from a approx. 1000 mile motorcycle ride where the temperature was, on average 95 degrees. A souvenir from my trip was a pretty bad case of "Monkey Butt." <br /><br />Monkey Butt is a painful rash condition that is due to butt perspiration and lack adequate wicking so the skin can't breath properly. Did I mention it was painful? The last hour of the ride was really, really, uncomfortable, detracting from the pleasure of the ride, decreasing the safety, and forcing me to stand every 15 minutes or so on the pegs to get my butt off the seat.<br /><br />I sweat a lot and the high temperatures along the ride exacerbated the condition. My daily commutes, approx. 45 minutes each way, were not long enough to flush out the problem but the long, hot, rides definitely did.<br /><br />This problem isn't new is just been rebranded with a more catchy name that tough guys can associate themselves with. It's more common name is: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diaper_rash">Diaper Rash</a>. The symptoms and cause are basically the same: lack of airflow over the skin and inadequate wicking of moisture.<br /><br />Note: It's important to point out that I ride with Pearl Izumi bike shorts under my riding suit which does a lot to mitigate the problem but even the great shorts break down after about two hours sweating in the hot 95 degree sun. On a bicycle I've never had the problem which is probably attributable to the fact that the air is flowing better and effectively wicking the moisture.<br /><br />"One last thing before I quit"<br />I found a cure and it's simple and effective: Talcum Power otherwise known as Baby Powder.<br /><br />I purchased the Johnson and Johnson brand and liberally sprinkle the Talcum Powder into the shorts and the rash and pain quickly healed.<br /><br />While the way to really prevent Monkey Butt is to keep your butt dry. Sometimes due to excessive temperatures and lack of good ventilation it's not easy. To assist keeping your butt dry Talcum Powder, and some of the additives to Talcum based products: corn-starch, zinc-oxide, kaolin, etc. are cost-effective, widely available and solves the problem effectively to reduce adult diaper rash or Monkey Butt.Jennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-412364327206981719.post-41030101758067690032009-06-07T22:45:00.000-07:002010-12-27T18:13:11.852-08:00Suzuki V-Strom DL650 Oil changeChanging the oil on a Suzuki V-Strom DL 650 is pretty easy. I commute about 60 miles round-trip per day and this puts a lot of miles on the bike. I follow a few rules:<br /><br /> 1. Use reasonably priced good oil and good oil filters<br /><ul><li>Shell Rohtella T Syntheic 10w-40w (Blue container)</li><li>Mobil 1 5w - 40w Synthetic</li><li>Puralator Filters or Suzuki stock filters<br /></li></ul> Oil in my DL 650 takes a lot of punishment since I'm on the freeway a lot, ~5-6k RPM's while cruising, as well as up and down hills in San Francisco (Wet Clutch in the DL650).<br /><br /> Therefore I have found the either of the two-oils above work well in the DL650. Puralator filters (ML16818) are available from <a href="http://www.blogger.com/Purolator%20ML16818%20Black%20Motorcycle%20Oil%20Filter">Amazon</a> and are around $11 for two filters . I have had very good results with the Puralator filter and have used it many times. Many people report that the stock Suzuki filter is also good, just a bit pricey ($?).<br /><br />2. Change the oil frequently around 3.0k - 4k and always change the oil filter<br /> I change the oil pretty often since I am running at such high RPM's, freeway, much of the time on the bike. My ST1300 does not break down oil as fast since it aveage freeway RPM's are around 3.8k-4.2k. This high RPM from the Strom breaks down the oils viscoity a bit faster. When the vicosity of the oil begins to break down the lubricating abilty of the oil dimishes and engine damage begins. I have around 39k miles on the bike now following this oil change period and expect to get 100k from the bike as long as I keep it maintained.<br /><br />3. You'll need a small funnel, an oil drip pan, a fiter scocket and have a scocket set on-hand.<br /> You're going to need to pour the oil into something. I purchased a inexpensive oil drip pan at Pep Boy's (big auto store). An invaluble tool for taking off the oil filter is the filter scoket. It fits over the filter and allows you to twist off the filter. I read heard horror stories of the strap style filter remover and have always used this tool with great sucess.<br /><br />4. Center stand or center risers and bungie to keep front brake engaged<br /><br />Let the games begin...<br />1) Unscrew the oil filter one turn, while the engine is cold, to get it started. No oil will be dripping unless there is a crack in the gasket. Note: this "pre-turn" will make removing the filter later a bit easier.<br />2) Turn over the engine and let it warm the oil. Let the engine heat up to the first bar then turn the engine off.<br />3) Put the oil pan under the drain bolt and carefully remove both drain bolt and washer. Be careful as the oil will be a bit warm and the washer may stick to the engine.<br />4) Wait about 10 minutes for warm oil to drain.<br />5) After 10 minutes I then remove the oil filter letting the majority of the oil drain from the engine.<br />Note: Some people turn the engine over a couple of turns to get 'all' the oil out. Not me, I don't mind a little bit of old oil with the new oil. The risk/reward of turning over the engine without oil in the engine just never made much sense to me so I don't do it.<br />6) Put the drain bolt, with washer, back on.<br />7) Put a few daps of fresh oil around the new oil fliter gasket to help it seal. Screw on the new oil filter and tighten it pretty tightly. Remember you'll need to take it off again (About 12-13 ft/lbs).<br />8) Put oil back into the engine and check to make sure it goes to the 'TOP' of the window.<br />9) Cover the oil fill port.<br />10) Start the engine and look for leaks - fix as necessary run about 3-5 minutes.<br />11) Let engine cool and oil drain back into reservoir - about 10 minutes<br />11) Add a bit more oil if the engine oil doesn't return to the center mark. Note: the new filter will absorb some oil.<br />11) Confirm oil level is correct before taking off center stand.<br /><br />To summarize:<br />1) Start with good oil and a good filter (always change both)<br />2) Use the right tools, namely oil wrench, and take your time.<br /><br />The cardinal rule is: safety first. It's important to not do this job on the side-stand as if the bike fell on you it would make for a very, very bad day. But rather a center-stand (or what I use, center risers).Jennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-412364327206981719.post-57702350033645992422009-05-23T10:07:00.000-07:002010-12-27T19:11:34.102-08:00Lane SplittingI commute to work on my motorcycle. Since I drive into San Francisco each day, the traffic can be, and often is bumper to bumper (especially bad Tuesday around 8AM). In California, lane splitting on a motorcycle in not illegal. According to the California Highway Patrol's website:<br /><br />"<a href="http://www.chp.ca.gov/html/answers.html"><strong>Can motorcycle riders "split" lanes and ride between other vehicles?<br /></strong>Lane splitting by motorcycles is permissible but must be done in a safe and prudent manner.</a>"<br /><br />Reader please heed: Lane splitting can be dangerous to your health<br />Cars are generally not expecting bikes to be zipping past them at 10 - 15x their relative speed on the freeway. I have been cut-off, turned into and blocked on several occasions. I'm not sure it was deliberate or just being unaware. Either way - it's dangerous.<br /><br /><br />Ways I found to make splitting less dangerous:<br /><ol><li>Ride like your invisible - I grew up in San Francisco and rode my bicycle everywhere, day/night rain or shine until I finally purchased a car when I was 26 years old for work outside the city. My rule for riding was, "ride like I was invisible". I would assume nobody could see me and drove very, very defensively in city traffic.</li><li>Scrutinize each car you pass as a threat - On my bicycle when I was passing cars, parked in parallel, I tried to look through each cars back window, or/and each side view mirror for a driver. If there was a driver in the car, I assumed they were going to open their door into me and gave them a wider berth (or slowed down for an potential emergency stop). On my motorcycle I do the same when traveling next to parallel parked cars: slow down and look for drivers in each car. If there is a driver, prepare to brake and give them a wide berth moving farther than the arc an opening door would be.<br /></li><li>Be seen - I wear a bright yellow suit by Olympia Phantom Suit. I'm often the brunt of jokes, "big banana man", "CalTrans guy" even mocked by a guy on a Vespa in the city but it helps with safety. It increases my visibility in both day and night as well as keeping me dry in winter. Both my motorcycles have lots of 3M reflective tape all over them to increase their visibility.</li><li>Slow down - Some guys split at 50-60 MPH. This is just a death wish; it gives very little time to emergency brake, or find an outlet if cut-off. I split at around 30 MPH. If another rider queues up behind me, I pull over let them by. I then look for another biker that might be coming down the split lane, and if clear, head back into the split lane. Repeat as necessary. The fact is that when I usually split, traffic is pretty much a parking lot screeching along at 2-3 MPH. My relative speed combined with my visibility gives drivers fair warning I'm coming through so there are few surprises as I approach and pass them.</li><li>Some freeway lanes are narrow - During my commute there are a couple of stretches where the freeway lanes narrow and the split lane is too narrow for a safe split at any speed. Normally most considerate drivers will move over a bit if they know you're coming. When moving slowly through the split lane I feel it's important to be considerate of other motorcyclists which may still want to barrel though it. Ergo: I periodically scan my mirrors for other bikers and if getting close move over to let them roll through.<br /></li></ol>Dealing with jerks in cages: <br />Sometimes I encounter the pick-up with extra-wide mirrors or the shiny BMW that is blocking the split lane with their car and/or mirrors. I try to identify these vehicles as early as possible and if necessary to, slow, signal and transition into another lane. Switching lanes can increase risk, since other drivers are expecting consistency. I believe driving consistently is important since it helps our brain calculate when an object, at a fixed velocity will arrive. Our brains do a great job of this calculation but the accuracy is based on consistency. Changing your line or speed influences the effectiveness of this mental calculation. If I need to move to another lane I always use my turn signals and try and clearly communicate my intentions to other drivers. Sometimes the driver is on-the-phone, doing their make-up or just spaced in traffic. Either way communicate your intentions clearly with by signaling, and slowing-down, before changing lanes.<br /><br />Splitting lanes is a fact-of-life in the daily Bay Area commute for a motorcyclist. Before attempting this you need to have a very good feel for your motorcycle: be able to emergency stop well and be prepared to do double-duty with defensive driving. Slow-down, be very observant and consistent in your driving and you'll save some time in traffic and come out the other side.<br /><br />Be safe.Jennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-412364327206981719.post-52871928048198215342009-05-22T15:47:00.001-07:002010-12-27T18:56:50.668-08:00ST1300 oil changeAfter reading about the pain of changing the ST1300's oil. I decided to document my first oil change.<br /><br />A bit of background: I commute 60 (roundtrip) to work each day and that ends up putting around 13k on a bike each year. I was commuting on my V-Strom DL650 but upgraded to a used 2005 ST 1300/A with 19k miles on it. I was told the oil changes were done every 2k miles.<br /><br />Changing the oil my DL650 was quick and simple and I have done it many times. I try and change the oil every 3k miles with Mobil 1 Synthetic since the bike takes a lot of wear and tear during the commute into San Francisco. I have read a lot about motor oils used for motorcycles and either use Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5/30 or Mobil 1 Synthetic 10/30. I find that the Shell Rotella T is readily available at Kragen for about $26 and the bike runs real smooth for about 2.5-3k miles.<br /><br />Whenever I change I oil I always change the oil filter, it just seems sensible. Since this is a new bike, for me, I want to be sure all oils are fresh so I will also be changing the Hypoid gear oil as well (Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-90)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.thefairchilds.org/bikes/st-oilchange.html">This site provided a good walkthough</a>.<br /><br />Here's my plan before I get started:<br /><ol><li>Use some aluminum foil to protect parts underneath the bike that might get oil dripped on them.</li><li>I will loosen the oil filter a bit, with my oil filter cap wrench(<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMHKY0/ref=ox_ya_oh_product">OEM 25404 Oil Filter F Cap Wrench 65/67mm</a> ), while cold, since it is usually easier to remove cold. I used a similar Cap wrench on my DL and it worked wonderfully.<br /></li><li>Similar to how I changed the oil on my DL I will then run the engine for a couple of minutes, to warm the oil before draining.</li><li>I will keep the ST on it's center-stand to get the filter loose (but before oil leaks out).</li><li>Put the drip pan under the drain bolt and remove the drain bolt.</li><li>When finished dripping from drain bolt remove oil filter and finish draining.<br /></li><li>Screw the <span style="font-weight: bold;"> </span><a style="font-weight: bold;" href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GIVEII/ref=ox_ya_oh_product">Purolator PL14610 PureONE Oil Filter</a> onto the bike. Tighten to around 14 lbs/ft. Honda recommends 22 lbs/ft but this seems ridiculous, but I'll document what value works well and can be removed without to much pain.<br /></li><li>Put the drain bolt back on.</li><li>Put in 4.1 quarts of Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5/40 (Kragen Auto Parts: $26.00/gallon).</li><li>Turn over the engine and let idle until warm - 1-2 bars on engine heat indicator.</li><li>Check oil is at level mark. I am especially concerned oil is not overfilled as it increases pressure on the cylinders heads, gaskets etc..</li></ol>Hypoid gear:<br /><ol><li>Using same oil drain pan from engine oil:</li><li>Remove Hypoid gear drain bolt.</li><li>Drain gear oil into drain pan.</li><li>Put drain bolt back.</li><li>Put the bike on the side stand, open Hypoid Fill-bolt and fill to where gear oil is about to come out and then close (This gives me a bit more oil in the gear case.)<br /></li><li>Put the fill-bolt back on.</li><li>Examine for leaks.</li></ol>Ride!<br /><br />My 2 cents on the oil change and ST1300 maintenance:<br />Oil change interval: ~3k miles (probably too few miles, for a synthetic oil, but commuting through San Francisco, several good sized hills for the clutch, is a bit tough on the bike).<br />Hypoid gear oil change: ~20k miles (I feel the Mobile 1 75W-90 gear lubricant can take 20K miles as there is only light-friction from the Hypoid gears, and no real heat to wear down the viscosity).Jennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-412364327206981719.post-62031559853147575832009-05-17T17:30:00.000-07:002010-12-27T20:01:29.673-08:00ST1300 / Bestem top-box installation<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiizHc8kIMfwbmhul48SEPFKubQkY-P6dlMp11ZD9-rfh6LZxFh5NWOIYxZf7ZVr6MG5XEKM9dq0QtuO30or34OCiWlOlh6EU_Cmg92pFycBOBO6SAVw1JwLHkNLXxsIMR_BP67jO_QWfI/s1600-h/P1030425.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiizHc8kIMfwbmhul48SEPFKubQkY-P6dlMp11ZD9-rfh6LZxFh5NWOIYxZf7ZVr6MG5XEKM9dq0QtuO30or34OCiWlOlh6EU_Cmg92pFycBOBO6SAVw1JwLHkNLXxsIMR_BP67jO_QWfI/s320/P1030425.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337227591248838050" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVFTlP6gVcodlQMF6axrpsR1JOpnuie7mwnygI-a6Yf2st0ZS4sXuzRnLYa3uZtAvJ6RvZWEpCCDQi34q2fc860qHtFuCPawIJUsM319tfKVQNgL-cukbZEqchlzJWcDSglPmCON2agNc/s1600-h/P1030424.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVFTlP6gVcodlQMF6axrpsR1JOpnuie7mwnygI-a6Yf2st0ZS4sXuzRnLYa3uZtAvJ6RvZWEpCCDQi34q2fc860qHtFuCPawIJUsM319tfKVQNgL-cukbZEqchlzJWcDSglPmCON2agNc/s320/P1030424.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337227260279228082" border="0" /></a><br />I have a 2004 Honda ST1300. It was purchased used with around 19,000 miles and I use it to commute into my office in San Francisco (about 30 miles each way).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaGFfl8SZcR3DUKAIbc62yJ6jC2FQS431tZKL0CBGbBWnXlQg70-VxcQCRanqB-AQyZ-OAMXod37tYa-xO3QODtxD9MyETCtU2h7j9Bh8J8p4xD3ow4OToo7AzNuCxwb-4g5ZN1uuFW4o/s1600-h/P1030407.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaGFfl8SZcR3DUKAIbc62yJ6jC2FQS431tZKL0CBGbBWnXlQg70-VxcQCRanqB-AQyZ-OAMXod37tYa-xO3QODtxD9MyETCtU2h7j9Bh8J8p4xD3ow4OToo7AzNuCxwb-4g5ZN1uuFW4o/s320/P1030407.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337227822843841058" border="0" /></a><br />I have a Givi Top-box on my V-Strom which I like very much. It is high-quality, and rugged, made for the daily grind.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggeqzjhJhqrUvwu66MfrPGdg10_bJNgWWa4f6IRdgBuaJKNG68C2ZoItcRdg_dKrKKcrRxNPKVhkSeB4YleXvuk1IhFpYmacVlhi4zF0Q9c2aSuWaaJWEcr41yyxE2zfHwAZEteyugYMI/s1600-h/P1030406.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggeqzjhJhqrUvwu66MfrPGdg10_bJNgWWa4f6IRdgBuaJKNG68C2ZoItcRdg_dKrKKcrRxNPKVhkSeB4YleXvuk1IhFpYmacVlhi4zF0Q9c2aSuWaaJWEcr41yyxE2zfHwAZEteyugYMI/s320/P1030406.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337228100086418626" border="0" /></a><br />The Bestem is not. It is a low-cost, cheap, top-box. It cost $87.58 including shipping and handling. I purchased the blue Bestem top-box. It matches the 2004 ST blue very nicely. This purchase was predicated on<br /><ol><li>Price, it was inexpensive for a ST1300 top-box</li><li>Backrest, for the pinion rider</li><li>Storage, for longer trips.</li></ol>A significant issue is that this box requires a bit of work to get to fit on your ST. It's not difficult but does require some tinkering (about 4-5 hours for me).<br /><br />The box itself is about a 8x cheaper than the Honda-line top-box with light. The Bestem box comes with a light built-in which, surprisingly, the Honda-line box does not; It is an option.<br /><br />It took about a week to get the Bestem box and upon opening it I found a very noticeable scratch on the top of the case. Not a good start.<br /><br />This box is about value, quality is sacrificed as the plastic is thin and pretty flimsy. The mounting bracket is also thin metal. This turns out to be helpful since it made it 'really' easy to drill though. More on this...<br /><br />To get this box to work on the ST is not a bit deal, but does require a bit of work:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_No41ExpOqla2lL3pzDwfnnECf4m4I5ShMR_AJxT6158fM-TWY9mio2XT2exfIB2u5e_fKyRvQrQ9H_Tb5WWJzj0uzjjpBw34fv6jXD0F60rMVNXAYhV4WIxrkHj5UXM5_9IO4LbqoJM/s1600-h/P1030415.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_No41ExpOqla2lL3pzDwfnnECf4m4I5ShMR_AJxT6158fM-TWY9mio2XT2exfIB2u5e_fKyRvQrQ9H_Tb5WWJzj0uzjjpBw34fv6jXD0F60rMVNXAYhV4WIxrkHj5UXM5_9IO4LbqoJM/s320/P1030415.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337228576009405698" border="0" /></a><br />1) Take off the four plastic screws on the back rack of the ST and remove the black plastic piece (above). Note here that I have pushed one of the washers that came with the top-case into the black plastic, it fit great.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt783CSbNAVeCuhRva1MRqRlWoPP1Yqq96BYiGF-_kX_B8cjeIVE8Dv75QWhEPSLtlg3iYzRCTUyVxjQc9pN9RPXli5xYDQsFsyCYQ5SU5Jv6UI1hPG63bZvNdsJbKJAwR4K0eqU_Go2s/s1600-h/P1030401.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt783CSbNAVeCuhRva1MRqRlWoPP1Yqq96BYiGF-_kX_B8cjeIVE8Dv75QWhEPSLtlg3iYzRCTUyVxjQc9pN9RPXli5xYDQsFsyCYQ5SU5Jv6UI1hPG63bZvNdsJbKJAwR4K0eqU_Go2s/s320/P1030401.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337229312164826754" border="0" /></a><br />2) Turn over the Bestem top-box mounting plate and line-up the bottom two-holes of the Honda black plastic piece (template) with the long slits of the Bestem rack (This is not a good picture as the template should be scooted up about 4 inches, sorry).<br /><br />3) Once the template is centered on the Bestem rack, I used a silver indelible marker to mark the spots to drill.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF7FihAca5m-Lx7Fq3qbB-Z-jixiynlCwpbKws7Vw7XXd-b4qzxoSoVpzyZWldzp1qnmDXkWSl0j4N298fNKNpoEXb-72uIk4LYkbY6cqMOcVyAgoRWgrBJctuXaGdkPU0dYuX9wv-R0c/s1600-h/P1030410.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF7FihAca5m-Lx7Fq3qbB-Z-jixiynlCwpbKws7Vw7XXd-b4qzxoSoVpzyZWldzp1qnmDXkWSl0j4N298fNKNpoEXb-72uIk4LYkbY6cqMOcVyAgoRWgrBJctuXaGdkPU0dYuX9wv-R0c/s320/P1030410.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337229993025264418" border="0" /></a><br /><br />4) Removing the template, I took a center punch an punched a couple of indentations so the drill would stay in the hole.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzTynBJGhK21EH2VLyDyE47Gi5SxlIU-FidTKKLplNWPyPFCWZD8nj2H_vEHjvpyl8sFt0N4HehyphenhyphenvRI69hEP3nB9KClzVqAzd7eiCgDMQ31c0xIx1DG9k1hQm78d8fKJ4ZwkivcTJY7h4/s1600-h/P1030412.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzTynBJGhK21EH2VLyDyE47Gi5SxlIU-FidTKKLplNWPyPFCWZD8nj2H_vEHjvpyl8sFt0N4HehyphenhyphenvRI69hEP3nB9KClzVqAzd7eiCgDMQ31c0xIx1DG9k1hQm78d8fKJ4ZwkivcTJY7h4/s320/P1030412.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337230436315389362" border="0" /></a><br /><br />5) I choose a 5/16" bit which worked well and the holes were easy to drill since the gauge of the metal is rather thin.<br /><br />6) Build a solid platform. Since the Bestem rack isn't made for this bike it needed to be supported a bit more. I took one of the metal U-brackets that came with the rack and mounted it as in the picture. To do this, I marked, then used the center punches again, then drilled two more holes about two inches below where the previous holes were drilled.<br /><br />7) I went to our local hardware store and purchase a couple of small machine screws (1" I think) and a locking nut.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgArkGLks0y0qu2Y5TchirtVpF27uBNOhy75r_bWMnYzy0fdRi4pb9CZ_qrvJ7s6rllSrPIv67oN805rP1Y2ScCP_fwNZGdwJ3SqusWC6BMiEsCqdpoTH7w3yl-VdgQxdgfat2ziCZA50Y/s1600-h/P1030416.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgArkGLks0y0qu2Y5TchirtVpF27uBNOhy75r_bWMnYzy0fdRi4pb9CZ_qrvJ7s6rllSrPIv67oN805rP1Y2ScCP_fwNZGdwJ3SqusWC6BMiEsCqdpoTH7w3yl-VdgQxdgfat2ziCZA50Y/s320/P1030416.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337230941845186066" border="0" /></a><br />8) I secured the U-bracket to the Bestem rack and it felt solid.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLrOkyEa9ZASbOCL1ywVOm3Fbc_8yP-2ZpyOlomIcEyLtGQoWAr6g7UE8T4aYuwjtTEM7DUjFhp386eO1xKNZaox2zmsdDIvT5wFiUIWBBQI4_5NyuDhTANQmhikScHKvxlwaE_N27CcU/s1600-h/P1030422.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLrOkyEa9ZASbOCL1ywVOm3Fbc_8yP-2ZpyOlomIcEyLtGQoWAr6g7UE8T4aYuwjtTEM7DUjFhp386eO1xKNZaox2zmsdDIvT5wFiUIWBBQI4_5NyuDhTANQmhikScHKvxlwaE_N27CcU/s320/P1030422.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337231479718668002" border="0" /></a><br />9) I also purchased a couple of 1 1/2" machine screws for the back of the rack since the bolts that same with the rack hung down a bit lower than I wanted.<br /><br />Almost done<br /><br />10) Using the two supplied bolts and washer for the front of the rack, it's a tight squeeze but managed to get the lock washer and bolts screwed on. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Be sure to not tighten completely until all bolts are attached.</span><br /><br />11) Once all bolts were loose I centered the rack visually and screwed down two bolts.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0FDYubos0O3bKoZr3n5g1CyaDNUqCepIolOZdcPvVb02db5h5ZZlWAzcHPhwPUOa_E7Jns3_ioRpql7RJLF4-8I_fRaZqGXQUc8vJN-zbEJaUzca-4p9KsEOZGqhByvqGuKZj6iJgGqE/s1600-h/P1030421.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0FDYubos0O3bKoZr3n5g1CyaDNUqCepIolOZdcPvVb02db5h5ZZlWAzcHPhwPUOa_E7Jns3_ioRpql7RJLF4-8I_fRaZqGXQUc8vJN-zbEJaUzca-4p9KsEOZGqhByvqGuKZj6iJgGqE/s320/P1030421.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337232368227282786" border="0" /></a><br /><br />12) I then tested the top-box on the rack to see if it would actually work. I was concerned that the bolt heads might not have enough clearance and scratch the bottom of the rack. No problem, at least while the top-box is empty :). The fit was nice and snug. The locking system is pretty cheesy - a lightweight plastic button. Again this is a value system.<br /><br />13) While the top-case was on I also tested to make sure I could get my seat on and off. It's a bit snug but worked.<br /><br />14) I then removed the top-case and tightened the remaining bolts careful not to bend the Bestem rack. The U-bracket really helped prevent this.<br /><br />15) I have not connected the top-case lights yet. I will complete this entry when I do.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiolwg-3iXdPGiaAoulHoASWmm3I94xNCCY0SmhiIZjNQXtNlIIcdHVm4rkC30JAlkprxh4gfZAZ65ECHnp8hkOmlLxTgx8ULleIUaDR5z-wvNPaBXajNysdfuaSt_EFyICJ2C5qkYt7Kc/s1600-h/P1030423.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiolwg-3iXdPGiaAoulHoASWmm3I94xNCCY0SmhiIZjNQXtNlIIcdHVm4rkC30JAlkprxh4gfZAZ65ECHnp8hkOmlLxTgx8ULleIUaDR5z-wvNPaBXajNysdfuaSt_EFyICJ2C5qkYt7Kc/s320/P1030423.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337233174887080114" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Summary:<br />The Bestem top-box is an inexpensive system that requires some work to install the rack on the ST1300. It is made of a lighter grade plastic than my Givi system, which I have been commuting happily with for the last year on my V-Strom. Since I primarily use the ST's side cases for storage, while commuting to my to my office, I didn't attach the Bestem top-case for daily use. I do plan to use the top-case when on longer weekend rides, with my wife, and feel the backrest will make her ride a bit more comfortable. The blue paint job, albeit scractched a bit, was impressive. The color match of the case to the bike it almost seems a color match to the 2004 Blue.<br /><br />Was it worth the actual price (base price - including shipping- of $87.58), a few nuts and bolts and 4-5 hours to install)? Yes, since I enjoyed the process, I like to tinker, and don't use the top-box on a daily basis. If you "don't" have the time to tinker with your bike this might not be the rack for you. This top-box is also a bit delicate, compared to my Givi, and has a pretty cheesy locking system and you will need to manually disconnect the brake wires after box removal from rack. On a day-to-day basis, I wouldn't feel confident about using the Bestem rack, but for weekend warriors, who like to do their own work, it seems a good value.<br /><br /><br />Following-up a couple of years later living with the Bestem ("Not all the glitters is gold"):<br />It did seem like a good value but I would not buy one again as it is just to cheaply constructed. I have a Givi V46 on another bike and would get another in a flash. They're solid and work great in a variety of weather conditions. The Bestem lock mechanism doesn't turn easily anymore and the box just feels cheap. The plastic of the case is much thinner than the Givi and if you're using your top-case for a daily commute I wouldn't even consider the Bestem as it's not durable for daily use. While at the time I wanted to match the color of my bike with the top-box, which the Bestem did great, the durability of the product is really sub-par. <br /><br />In conclusion, When I install another top-box: I'll save time and spend a bit more to get a top-box that will stand-up for the life of my bike: the Givi V46 or the HondaLine.Jennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-412364327206981719.post-61596623213349739342009-05-17T15:11:00.000-07:002009-05-18T12:01:35.099-07:00Suzuki V-Strom DL650 Air Filter change<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgvTi-zSH5w7BBjoTvGHLyxgYxBWnap_twwX0kBpCRMGseGoqeBw46MGexkiQg94L8jSEpCriJxGCQOMIoWiYPljLM6yHLhpf3xwZzHU4m-O4jNqvsXOijoHI2JSWn3iA-7lJcs0hoxc/s1600-h/P1030466.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgvTi-zSH5w7BBjoTvGHLyxgYxBWnap_twwX0kBpCRMGseGoqeBw46MGexkiQg94L8jSEpCriJxGCQOMIoWiYPljLM6yHLhpf3xwZzHU4m-O4jNqvsXOijoHI2JSWn3iA-7lJcs0hoxc/s320/P1030466.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336944871959039922" border="0" /></a><br />I have a 2004 V-Strom DL650. It is a wonderful bike that I have used to commute to my office in San Francisco, each day. Living about thirty-miles from the city, the bike accumulates a significant amount of wear and tear each week. Currently I have around 38,000 miles on the bike :).<br /><br />I recently changed the brakes on the bike but have been procrastinating on changing the air filter. This weekend I changed out the stock air filter for a K & N filter. The bike is idling very nicely now and I am glad I used this filter and did the work myself.<br /><br />How I did it:<br /><br />1) Since the air filter is under the gas tank, you have to remove the gas tank.<br /><br />2) Remove the seat and the two black plastic faring pieces on each side of the bike.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgChEBPj4UBS9F0aUfYbbxSzzLU-jGD0jCuzkE4yQBUY_VqbDyifp07GxFPmUrC7BLU9K-y-bvrKqkpwjXc3Yp6A38ybM9_PUoZ1yDzgz0LQ1ZzP0Sl1WMujLFy0XPR9Ivt6bBQJc7o37A/s1600-h/P1030461.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgChEBPj4UBS9F0aUfYbbxSzzLU-jGD0jCuzkE4yQBUY_VqbDyifp07GxFPmUrC7BLU9K-y-bvrKqkpwjXc3Yp6A38ybM9_PUoZ1yDzgz0LQ1ZzP0Sl1WMujLFy0XPR9Ivt6bBQJc7o37A/s320/P1030461.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336941826581238498" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />3) Remove the (3) 4mm allen screws on the fairing; these should be the on ones closest to the back of the back. This will allow you to raise the gas tank on it's hinge.<br /><br />4) Remove the bolt holding down the gas tank.<br /><br />5) Slowly lift the gas tank<br /><br />6) You need to remove the electric, fuel intake and fuel overflow. Be careful to slowly lift the tank as there is very little play in some of the lines. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Be careful to </span><span style="font-weight: bold;">put a towel under the fuel line, before you disconnect it, as a bit will leak out after disconected.</span><br /><br />7) After a all hoses and wiring have been disconnected, unscrew the hinge bolt holding the gas tank. I lowered the gas tank before I started this step.<br /><br />8) After the hinge bolt is removed, find a helper to help spread out the fairing sides for easy gas tank removal.<br /><br />9) I spilled a bit of gas on my pants having the tank leaned towards me on removal but was easy otherwise.<br /><br />10) Removing the screws on the filter cover was easy.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXopl2JO70pL7bUVwi5HATgUaeEobZHYK0lYoP_A5zUCsxmowdj_kXFsiX27kiZYmSRxGmUR9kI480nrkX68k7OWS5oxy35yiaz_tlR2Sa8VLaVK1fZ3Uut11cziQerf__y8s_9JeuBRc/s1600-h/P1030463.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXopl2JO70pL7bUVwi5HATgUaeEobZHYK0lYoP_A5zUCsxmowdj_kXFsiX27kiZYmSRxGmUR9kI480nrkX68k7OWS5oxy35yiaz_tlR2Sa8VLaVK1fZ3Uut11cziQerf__y8s_9JeuBRc/s320/P1030463.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336942978456021586" border="0" /></a>Old filter:<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9I4dqrr0ZV0qTrJLn0z-5RqOfV-JQP4RZZD6U4SKNv8OGDSfOSB2bZWoy6zoGuUSFI-THXtOmoxI_VAZoLS6jj6l3tBj-dJbpTu41cqEr1lCx2gKhTFpnNra7ZJm4qb4z-bUv4q33i4U/s1600-h/P1030462.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9I4dqrr0ZV0qTrJLn0z-5RqOfV-JQP4RZZD6U4SKNv8OGDSfOSB2bZWoy6zoGuUSFI-THXtOmoxI_VAZoLS6jj6l3tBj-dJbpTu41cqEr1lCx2gKhTFpnNra7ZJm4qb4z-bUv4q33i4U/s320/P1030462.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336942295489982450" border="0" /></a><br />New filter:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ROLcGI4mE9scBM9tIntX1ecWyDf6OjjCGeKcDjgFM-nxDTHewy1l7I4oNMVfFDcsrYtqA7nOuoOpmLcFSJBkRYKSSZZqv7tS3pLmMfhVpcan7T0RV0gpJIw6AJhrB8yWU8NCVbmE6Sc/s1600-h/P1030465.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ROLcGI4mE9scBM9tIntX1ecWyDf6OjjCGeKcDjgFM-nxDTHewy1l7I4oNMVfFDcsrYtqA7nOuoOpmLcFSJBkRYKSSZZqv7tS3pLmMfhVpcan7T0RV0gpJIw6AJhrB8yWU8NCVbmE6Sc/s320/P1030465.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336943902560574786" border="0" /></a><br />11) As mentioned earlier I replaced the filter with a K & N filter, yes it was expensive. After a few thousand miles I'll be able to provide some feedback but am generally impressed with the quality of the filter over the stock filter.<br /><br />12) Putting the bike back together was easy. Again I had some help to spread the fairing and re-seat the gas tank. Once the hinge bolt was back in place, I raised the tank on the hinge and secured it by the gas tank bracket to remount all the hoses and wire harness.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgvTi-zSH5w7BBjoTvGHLyxgYxBWnap_twwX0kBpCRMGseGoqeBw46MGexkiQg94L8jSEpCriJxGCQOMIoWiYPljLM6yHLhpf3xwZzHU4m-O4jNqvsXOijoHI2JSWn3iA-7lJcs0hoxc/s1600-h/P1030466.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgvTi-zSH5w7BBjoTvGHLyxgYxBWnap_twwX0kBpCRMGseGoqeBw46MGexkiQg94L8jSEpCriJxGCQOMIoWiYPljLM6yHLhpf3xwZzHU4m-O4jNqvsXOijoHI2JSWn3iA-7lJcs0hoxc/s320/P1030466.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336944871959039922" border="0" /></a><br />In conclusion,<br />With the new K & N filter in place the bike is idiling well and the job was relatively easy to perform. With a bit of caution I think most mechanically oriented people will be able to perform this work themselves.Jennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-412364327206981719.post-13644090478473801082008-10-20T19:17:00.000-07:002010-12-27T19:45:54.326-08:00Learning to ride a motorcycleNorth of San Francisco, CA in northern Marin county the commute South most morning absolutely sucks. A ride that normally takes twenty-minutes usually takes forty-five, to an hour, during the peak commute of 7-9AM. <div><br /></div><div>What a waste of time.<br /><br />The joy of being on two wheels...<br />To alleviate the pain of this sadistic ritual, I learned how to ride a motorcycle and purchased one in '08.<br /><br /></div><div>Big, fat disclaimer:<br />Riding a motorcycle proficiently is difficult and demanding to do well. With some 'cycles' weighing in around three-hundred pounds, most around five-hundred and some heavy-weights around eight-hundred - getting all that mass to stop where you want on a dry, sunny day with no traffic, can be challenging. Couple that with traffic, weather, bad roads, tracks, gravel, rude drivers and it can be pretty hazardous.<br /><br />To begin riding I started with a <a href="http://www.msf-usa.org/">Motorcycle Safety Foundation</a> class. It lasted one evening and two half days on a bike. The class gave a good introduction on how to safely ride. Even though you learn on a small 175cc Kawasaki bike I immediately felt the basic differences, in turning and balance from my relatively light twenty-three pound bicycle (which I was rode regularly since I was very young). The weight differential dramatically influenced the handling characteristics, even with this relatively small motorcycle. Starting the bike and getting it moving was easy, turning and stopping it was the tricky bit.<br /><br />After passing the MSF class I went to the DMV. I didn't think I needed to study since the MSF test was fairly detailed. But I was wrong, and failed the first time. Embarrassing. For the second go I studied the on-line tests and passed.<br /><br />So with my temporary license in tow, I needed to buy a bike.<br /><br />One thing about the MSF class is that there are other students at the same level as you. During breaks, I asked most of the guys, there were no ladies, which bike they were going to purchase. Some set their sites on sport bikes and others basic starter bikes - a very popular bike seemed to be the Suzuki SV650. Based on this recommendation I started looking into the SV650. The instructors recommended buying a used bike first, since she said we would be making lots of rookie mistakes with it, like letting it fall-over. A used SV650 seemed like the way to go.<br /><br />I used the web to quickly try and become an expert on motorcycles before I purchased one. I scoured magazines (Rider, Motorcyclist, Cycle World, BMW On, etc.) and websites for which motorcycle suited me best. The more I read about the SV650, the more the SV650 seemed like a great way to go. My prerequisites were:<br /><ul><li>inexpensive<br /></li><li>good power for the freeway<br /></li><li>relatively light and maneuverable<br /></li><li>reliable for the day-to-day commute<br /></li></ul><br />So the Suzuki SV650, Honda Nighthawk or BMW 650GS all seemed like good candidates. Since the BMW was significantly more expensive than the Honda or Suzuki it wasn't at the top of my list.<br /><br />I scoured <a href="http://www.craigslist.com/">CraigsList</a> and contacted several people by email.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">My first test ride</span><br />I took a experienced friend with me to test-ride a Honda NightHawk. He was going to ride it home for me as I had never been on a freeway with a motorcycle before. The test ride was a bit scary as this was only the third time I had ridden a motorcycle. The owner was very nice but that bike was a bit small for me, being six feet tall I decided to pass.<br /><br />So I researched more and more until I found a bike similar to the SV in weight but more suited to commuting. It was the V-Strom DL650. It comes in two flavors: 650 and 1000 cc's. It has a wind visor and a more upright seating position.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">My second test ride</span><br />I drove to evaluate a V-Strom DL650 that was being offered on Craigslist. The bike had around 26k miles on it and had a lot of extras like heated grips, PIAA lights improved windscreen and seat. The owner was really nice. He wanted payment though before a test ride.<br /><br />For me it was love at first sight. I went to the bank with him wrote a cashiers check and the bike was mine.<br /><br />The previous owner was great and even offered to ride it to my house so I could drive my car back home.<br /><br />In retrospect, I was lucky. The Wee-Strom is super-wonderful and I've put another 25k miles on it. The previous owner kind, helpful and everything worked out well. If I had to do it again, I would recommend though to not write a check until you've: Thoroughly inspected a bike or had a knowledgeable professional inspect it for you or completely trust the selling party. Insist on a test ride before you buy a bike. Not being able to test ride a bike is just silly and I could have ended-up with an expensive mistake on my hands.<br /><br />So now that's it's been a few years:<br />I'm glad I didn't drive the bike back home on the freeway. The first year of riding a motorcycle has one of the highest levels of injury let along the first real day on a new bike going 60+ MPH. There's a lot to learn when you first start riding. When buying a used bike for the first time I recommend bringing a experienced motorcycling friend along that can help you examine the bike, then negotiate a fair price and lastly drive it home for you. Then you can slowly ramp up and take progressively longer rides as you feel more and more comfortable on your new bike. Lastly I highly recommend David Hough's well-written book: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Motorcycling-Ultimate-Guide-Riding/dp/1889540536">Proficient Motorcycling</a><br /><br />Motorcycling is wonderful - ride safe and see you on the road.<br /><br /></div>Jennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-412364327206981719.post-69276833176276308422008-10-20T13:53:00.000-07:002008-10-27T18:39:27.262-07:00SoniCare battery replacementReplacing batteries in consumer devices shouldn't be hard. If you're using a Phillips SoniCare toothbrush though it's a royal pain in-the-ass. SoniCare toothbrushes are good in maintaining oral hygiene but not good for the environment since they are built with Nickel Cadmium batteries that are difficult to access and therefore, similar to an IPod, have planned obsolesce built into the unit. Once the battery is dead you need to throw out the whole unit. Isn't that silly...<br /><br />Background:<br />Our family generally liked our SoniCare we had a couple of bodies and several heads that each family member would screw-on when they wanted to brush. I'm not sure why now, but we stopped using the brushes for about a year and then we decided to get back into them. Therefore the units sat idle for about a year. Not good...<br /><br />After a twenty-four hour period of recharging the batteries in the charging cradle, both units wouldn't hold a charge. They would go on for about ten seconds then turn off, thirsty for more power, waiting for another charge. Clearly there was some battery related problem.<br /><br />After looking for a simple battery access cover on the unit, not finding it, and then searching the net for answers. I found that the batteries were difficult to access and this was going to require a bit of work to fix. Since I wanted to learn more about the SoniCare and how it worked I took on the challenge and decided to change the batteries myself (Pictures coming shortly).<br /><br />I found two techniques for getting to the batteries on the Net:<br /><br />1) Depending the the model of SoniCare you have they recommend inserting a screwdriver into the body twisting and separating the unit into two nice pieces. From the SoniCare website (<a href="http://www.sonicare.com/owners/help/help_cleaning.asp">http://www.sonicare.com/owners/help/help_cleaning.asp</a>): "How do I replace the batteries in my Sonicare Advance toothbrush? The batteries inside your Sonicare Advance toothbrush can't be replaced. We encourage you to recycle them instead. To do so, insert a flat-head screwdriver in a slot between the 2 halves of the handle at the threaded end to break them apart. "<br /><br />Huh...wait a minute..."Insert and flat-head screwdrive in a slot...break them apart..." That didn't sound good.<br />This method didn't work so well for me as I kept feeling like the handle was going to snap and break into about five pieces not two. Others have seemingly had more luck than I in various postings around the net.<br /><br />2) Others recommended using a Dremmel with a cutting wheel to cut the body in half extract the NiCad batteries and then replace them. (<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Repairing-your-Sonicare/">http://www.instructables.com/id/Repairing-your-Sonicare/</a>)<br /><br />Power tools are cool...<br />I like power-tools and have many of them. They sound badass, get stuff done quickly and are generally fun to use. Therefore any excuse to use my Roto-zip (Dremmel like tool) worked for me and avoided cracking the base into several pieces prying it with a screwdriver.<br /><br />Getting started:<br />I used a Dremmel cutting wheel attachment and cut the SoniCare housing. To do this, I secured the unit in a vise and carefully followed the seam that ran down from the threads around the body, unscrewed the vise, turned the unit over and then worked back up to the threads. It was really hard to follow the seam neatly and I gained a new found respect for those who can draw a perfectly straight line or cut a perfectly straight cut with the Roto-zip. It's definitely an acquired skill I haven't mastered yet.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Always</span> wear protective eye wear when using power tools...<br />I managed to cut my way up the unit following the seam as neatly as possible leaving only a mild gash here and there in the base plastic. It is very important to note that when cutting the unit hot plastic goes flying as the cut precedes, therefore it is <span style="font-weight: bold;">really</span> import that you wear protective eyewear when using any power tool and especially relevant for this project. Never make exceptions to this rule as protective eye wear is inexpensive and your vision is not.<br /><br />Next I pried open the unit and located the old Ni-Cad batteries. The unit's circuit board is mounted above the batteries so rather than desoldering the circuit board above the batteries, I cut an access opening for a battery door.<br /><br />The batteries were tough to get out. I needed to pry them out of a plastic/resin-like material which was a process that took way to long and several times I was sure I had ruined the old solder connections to the circuit board.<br /><br />Note: The batteries in the SoniCare were *Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad) batteries both bad for our landfill and have the downside of having a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Memory_effect">memory</a>. Rather than inviting back the same problems in a year or two by replacing with Ni-Cad batteries again I changed them out for Lithium Ion ( Li-Ion) batteries.<br /><br />Note: When testing the unit after the batteries were removed I used alligator clips connected to the battery posts and then connected that to two Duracell AA batteries. The result was a blinking light on the push-button. With a push of the button we could hear the motor vibrating against the top of the base and knew the old batteries had been removed successfully and I hadn't damaged the logic board.<br /><br />I puchased new Lithium Batteries (Li-Ion) batteries and taped them together so the positive post and the negative end were flush. I sanded all four battery terminals so the solder would stick and carefully soldered two-ends with a small wire so the batteries were in series and then the posts to the correct battery terminals. I was careful to keep the soldering iron and solder only on the batteries when absolutely necessary as excessive heat can damage Li-Ion batteries.<br /><br />I pushed it all back into its housing and light was blinking when I pushed the body back into the charger.<br /><br />But it now looks a bit mangled since my opening procedure sucked therefore here's how I plan on making it look and feel a bit better:<br /><ul><li>Take 3/4" pipe insulation and cover most of the brush we hold (with a hole for the switch)<br /></li><li>Use a handle bar grip.</li></ul>or... just wait till my family complains :)<br /><br />All in all, this project shouldn't have even been a project. It should have been as simple as open battery compartment and replace batteries. Both Phillips, and Apple - with their IPod/IPhones, should seriously rethink this idea that the batteries shouldn't be easily accessed and replaced. This strategy is bad for our environment, is expensive for the consumer and in the end is seems uncessary.<br /><br />I wouldn't recommend this project for most people. Unless you are comfortable with electronics and their voltages, cutting-tools and working carefully with hot-solder I recommend investing the same time into writing a letter to Phillips to help change their policy of not putting a battery door on the SoniCare and then recycling your current unit.<br /><br /><br />* Ni-Cad battery recycling in the U.S.:<br /><a href="http://www.recycleyourbattery.com/">http://www.recycleyourbattery.com/</a><br /><a href="http://www.batteriesplus.com/t-batteries-plus-recycles.aspx">http://www.batteriesplus.com/t-batteries-plus-recycles.aspx</a>Jennerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14253150113121452655noreply@blogger.com0