Friday, May 22, 2009

ST1300 oil change

After reading about the pain of changing the ST1300's oil. I decided to document my first oil change.

A bit of background: I commute 60 (roundtrip) to work each day and that ends up putting around 13k on a bike each year. I was commuting on my V-Strom DL650 but upgraded to a used 2005 ST 1300/A with 19k miles on it. I was told the oil changes were done every 2k miles.

Changing the oil my DL650 was quick and simple and I have done it many times. I try and change the oil every 3k miles with Mobil 1 Synthetic since the bike takes a lot of wear and tear during the commute into San Francisco. I have read a lot about motor oils used for motorcycles and either use Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5/30 or Mobil 1 Synthetic 10/30. I find that the Shell Rotella T is readily available at Kragen for about $26 and the bike runs real smooth for about 2.5-3k miles.

Whenever I change I oil I always change the oil filter, it just seems sensible. Since this is a new bike, for me, I want to be sure all oils are fresh so I will also be changing the Hypoid gear oil as well (Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-90)

This site provided a good walkthough.

Here's my plan before I get started:
  1. Use some aluminum foil to protect parts underneath the bike that might get oil dripped on them.
  2. I will loosen the oil filter a bit, with my oil filter cap wrench(OEM 25404 Oil Filter F Cap Wrench 65/67mm ), while cold, since it is usually easier to remove cold. I used a similar Cap wrench on my DL and it worked wonderfully.
  3. Similar to how I changed the oil on my DL I will then run the engine for a couple of minutes, to warm the oil before draining.
  4. I will keep the ST on it's center-stand to get the filter loose (but before oil leaks out).
  5. Put the drip pan under the drain bolt and remove the drain bolt.
  6. When finished dripping from drain bolt remove oil filter and finish draining.
  7. Screw the Purolator PL14610 PureONE Oil Filter onto the bike. Tighten to around 14 lbs/ft. Honda recommends 22 lbs/ft but this seems ridiculous, but I'll document what value works well and can be removed without to much pain.
  8. Put the drain bolt back on.
  9. Put in 4.1 quarts of Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5/40 (Kragen Auto Parts: $26.00/gallon).
  10. Turn over the engine and let idle until warm - 1-2 bars on engine heat indicator.
  11. Check oil is at level mark. I am especially concerned oil is not overfilled as it increases pressure on the cylinders heads, gaskets etc..
Hypoid gear:
  1. Using same oil drain pan from engine oil:
  2. Remove Hypoid gear drain bolt.
  3. Drain gear oil into drain pan.
  4. Put drain bolt back.
  5. Put the bike on the side stand, open Hypoid Fill-bolt and fill to where gear oil is about to come out and then close (This gives me a bit more oil in the gear case.)
  6. Put the fill-bolt back on.
  7. Examine for leaks.
Ride!

My 2 cents on the oil change and ST1300 maintenance:
Oil change interval: ~3k miles (probably too few miles, for a synthetic oil, but commuting through San Francisco, several good sized hills for the clutch, is a bit tough on the bike).
Hypoid gear oil change: ~20k miles (I feel the Mobile 1 75W-90 gear lubricant can take 20K miles as there is only light-friction from the Hypoid gears, and no real heat to wear down the viscosity).

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